Mexico’s Thirst – More than just Agave

What does Mexican beverage culture have to offer apart from the well-known agave spirits Tequila and Mezcal? Our author Peter Eichhorn has the answer.

The author Malcolm Lowry was a passionate drinker. He was fascinated by Mexico all his life. And this is why he dedicated his famous novel “Under the Volcano” to this country’s contrasts, hidden depths and drinking habits. Lowry spent ten years working on what is probably his most important work. Twelve publishers turned down his manuscript before it became a huge success in 1947. Its main protagonist, the Brit Geoffrey Firmin, reaches for the bottle copiously and often, thereby giving rise to an ode to the traditional Mexican pub, the cantina. Lowry writes: “What beauty can compare to that of a cantina in the early morning … for not even the gates of heaven, opening wide to receive me, could fill me with such celestial complicated and hopeless joy as the iron screen that rolls up with a crash, as the unpadlocked jostling jalousies which admit those whose souls tremble with the drinks they carry unsteadily to their lips.”

Cantinas invite you to eat and drink

Since the 18th century cantinas have been the central meeting points in every village and everyone is welcome to enjoy drinks and tapas there. Thanks to this long tradition, numerous cantinas are housed in impressive historic buildings, and many have made it into relevant travel guides as tourist sites, such as “La Fuente” in Guadalajara or “La Farola” in Oaxaca City.

Furthermore, cantinas are synonymous with the country’s numerous beverages and respective regional specialities. Today and in former times. Here, we are in for a remarkable variety thanks to the many immigrants that left their mark on Mexico over the centuries. From the 17th century, Mexico developed into an impressive melting pot. Mexico City had a Chinatown for almost 400 years, and the descendants of African immigrants occasionally even refer to themselves as “Blaxicans”.

Everyone raising a glass of Rompope

The immigrants came with thirst and drinking habits, which they “married” with regional products and customs. One popular beverage in Mexico is called Rompope. This is a kind of rum-based eggnog punch; it goes back to the nuns at Santa Clara Monastery in Puebla, who sorely missed their Spanish drinking tradition in the 17th century. Back home, they would enjoy “ponche de huevo” with eggnog and brandy. But since brandy was in short supply in Central America, they used rum instead.  

We tend to forget that Mexico boasts the fifth largest sugarcane growing area in the world. Unfortunately, there is not too much Mexican rum coming to Central Europe but in the Spanish-speaking world such brands as Pixan, Deadhead and Ron Prohibido enjoy a good reputation.  

Wines from Mexico gaining in popularity

Likewise, while wine growing in Mexico is not attracting too much attention yet, quality and diversity have constantly grown over the past few years. The different climates allow grape varieties like Chardonnay, Merlot, Tampranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, or Chenin Blanc to thrive. Apart from vinification Mexicans also like to distil their grapes and the country ranks among the Top 5 countries when it comes to brandy consumption. The country’s leading brand is Presidente Brandy.

Great thirst-quenching beer

Beer is also of paramount importance in the country. The Corona Extra brand enjoys worldwide popularity. In 2019 the eighth production site was commissioned with an impressive output of 24 million hectolitres. Even such brands as Dos Equis, Sol, Bohemia, or Tecate are sometimes available over here. Omnipresent across Mexico are mixed beer-based drinks. A classic is the ‘Michelada’, containing lime, spices and spicy sauces, salt all topped up with a lager. Beer is also mixed with Clamato, a popular mix drink made of tomato juice, clam broth and spices. Another popular option is Lagerita where Tequila is mixed with spices, lime and beer.  

For Malcolm Lowry Mexico remained both a place of longing and hell. But he never had to suffer thirst and one of his fears under the volcano never came true: “Nothing in the world was more terrible than an empty bottle! Unless it was an empty glass.”