Forgotten Cocktails – A Look at the History of Drinks
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Trends, news, current developments. These are usually the topics that visitors of BCB explore. But sometimes it is worth taking a look into the past, especially if it is a thorough and knowledgeable look.
Armin Zimmermann and Frank Arne Poremba have been running their blog "Bar Vademecum - Wissenswertes für den Bildungstrinker" from Hanover since 2015. In it, they follow an enjoyable and meticulous path that curiously explores the joy of sophisticated drinking and the cultural background of bar history.
Most recently, readers of the blog were able to learn exciting details about the history of the shaker, the etymology of rum and the search for traces in Germany of one of the forefathers of cocktail mixing, Harry Johnson. Unlike in English-speaking countries, there is no strong tradition of researching culinary history in German-speaking countries and finding sources and information can prove to be very exhausting. But perhaps we are on the road to recovery! A very successful translation into German of the pioneering work on bar history "Imbibe" by US cocktail historian David Wondrich was recently published. The translation was lovingly edited by the author and publisher Martin Stein, with whom Armin and Frank enjoy exchanging expertise.
Delicious research
The DBU (German Bartenders' Union), has recently been added to the programme and has adopted a modern and forward-looking approach without forgetting to look back to tradition. At BCB, the DBU stage is developing into an important educational institution within the framework of BCB, which, in addition to the numerous exciting international lectures at the trade show, also emphasizes the Central European perspective in German. Ironically, the lecture that the DBU asked Armin Zimmermann to give was entitled “Forgotten Cocktails”. As the crowning glory of the last day of the trade show, the numerous visitors came to the lecture to listen to the likeable drinks academic with his trademark bow tie.
International role models
Proven bartenders know that it never hurts to consult some of the classics of bar history, which can still be a great source of inspiration today. For example, "The Savoy Cocktail Book" by Harry Craddock, "The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks" by David A. Embury, "The Artistry of Mixing Drinks" by Frank Meier or "Jigger, Beaker & Glass" by Charles H. Baker. Those who read English have a clear advantage, as numerous historical cocktail books from the last 150 years are available as reprints or downloads and current authors such as Anastasia Miller, Jared Brown, David Wondrich and Ted Haigh are consistently dedicated to the subject. Bars such as "The Dead Rabbit" in New York and "Bourbon & Branch" in San Francisco or those dedicated to the tiki era or punch culture prove how exciting and delicious historical storytelling can be in modern bar life. In German-speaking countries, F.J. Beutel's 1919 work "Die modernen Getränke" (The Modern Drinks) has been reprinted and we occasionally come across curious clues that lead to the realization that Harry Johnson was probably buried in Berlin or that Johann Wolfgang von Goethe himself prepared mixed drinks.
Hard facts about cool drinks
Unfortunately, however, all too much remains superficial, as we are currently experiencing when the not so "golden" twenties are used to give various products an aura that remains rather clichéd on closer inspection. This could never happen to Armin Zimmermann. His examination of his subject is precise and well-researched and, where gaps in knowledge remain, he asks the obvious questions and offers possible solutions. For example, he discusses with the audience the rather unknown "Belmont Cocktail" from a 1917 cocktail book by New York bartender Hugo Richard Ensslin, which consists of gin, cream and raspberry syrup and definitely deserves to be
Armin Zimmermann during his DBU lecture "Forgotten Cocktails" at BCB 2023
rediscovered. The audience also listens with rapt attention to Armin's reflections on the exact units of measurement in historical recipes, for example when the quantity of a glass of wine is required. And even a dash can be a dash too much, depending on the quantity.
A session that arouses curiosity
The great thing about this cheerful talk is that there is no show personality on stage, but rather a likeable aficionado who wants to get to the bottom of the cultural heritage of liquid enjoyment and inspires all those present to do the same. After Armin talks about the "Princeton Cocktail", with Old Tom Gin, Tawny Port and Orange Bitters, from 1895 and its various variations, all those present immediately want to find out whether the difference between stirring the port in the preparation or alternatively floating it is really so striking. How wonderful that the DBU has taken up this historical topic and placed it in such competent and sympathetic hands.
