Bellboy Berlin: A Theme Park for Grown-ups

Bellboy” from Tel Aviv has opened its first international offshoot in the German capital. As unconventional and entertaining as the overall concept is for guests, as professional it is behind the scenes – and set to kick-off broad-based expansion. 

It is always exciting to enter a space that used to look completely different before. In this case the ground floor of the Berlin Hilton-Hotel on Gendarmenmarkt, which for many years housed the “Restaurant Mark Brandenburg”. There is nothing left of the typical looks of a dignified hotel restaurant: what you see here now are wooden coffered ceilings – somewhat scruffy despite the new finish – along with select vintage furniture, an old piano topped with a little desk-top luminaire plus exquisite, wine-red upholstery – a trip back in time. And not to be overlooked the glamorous, shining bar. Welcome to “Bellboy Berlin” the first German, indeed first international, spin-off of this successful concept from Tel Aviv.

A place where grown-ups can be children again

A hotel bar? Not really, more a bar at a hotel, completely self-sufficient, incidentally also in commercial terms (there is no charging the bar bill to your room). “We are a theme park for grown-ups,” says Omer Gazit-Shalev, Director of International Development at the Bellboy Group, in a nutshell. “Adults want to behave like kids, too, sometimes,” he adds with a smile. And this is certainly what they can do here: the “Bellboy” is a complete contrast to a minimalist bar concept focused on drinks and their ingredients. It is a customer journey, it is about fun and escapism, a journey into a vague past for the duration of some drinks.

Escapism objectified through trend vessels

Instead of customary glasses you’ll find all sorts of obscure vessels behind the bar and on the tables, shaped like grimaces, ball gowns turned into goblets or molar teeth you would otherwise only see in doctor’s waiting rooms. There are also tiny bathtubs and chunky boxing gloves with small inserts for narrow glasses.  

Drinks take up to a year to end up on the menu

After all, each drink here is not just a drink but a whole story – from the recipe and the matching story to its custom presentation form. Plenty of work goes into this, explains Gazit-Shalev, and adds that sometimes up to a year passes between the initial idea and the production of the drinking vessel.

 

Beverages turn into real eye-catchers

Guests love it, on Instagram you can marvel at photos featuring these obscure as well as artfully arranged beverages. The said bathtub, for example, is filled with “Keep Clean” – vodka, flower and elderflower cordial with a flowery “soap” and as a topping the drink comes with an (admittedly drinkable) foam bath complete with rubber duck. Blowing the horn is “Viking Club” with aquavit, Amaretto, rooibos-caramel as well as eucalyptus syrup, a red-berry mash with birch water. This drink is topped with a cracker – to create the idea of crumbs like in Hansel and Gretel.

 

Fun and ambition go hand in hand

The choice of ingredients and the arrangement of these drinks alone may reveal: the “backend” (i.e. what goes on behind the scenes) is high-end. The Bellboy has nothing in common with party bars of the popular category – where the quality of liquid ingredients is often of secondary importance. Fun, yes – but aspirational too. Which is also underlined by the fact that the minimum age to enter the bar is a high 25 years. 

Creative and experimental

Every technical detail known from the mixology world is used here – just more in the background and predominantly in the preparatory stage. Most cocktails are pre-mixed and batched – for a reason: “It helps us with consistency and bartenders to have a clear head for other things,” explains Gazit-Shalev. This is why at the “Bellboy” bartenders also occasionally serve their drinks at the tables the way chefs do with their menus at more and more fine-dining restaurants.


Deliberately lower-quality loudspeakers in use

A crucial difference between the spin-off and the “parent company” in Tel Aviv is the sheer size: 60 manageable seats there, 200 spaces here and a total of over 400 square metres! To not only create a homely look but also cosy “acoustics” in this large space, the operators decided to use loudspeakers of inferior quality so that Swing and Dixie do not come across as “crisp” as in a club but sound authentically old-school.

 

Onwards to the “Pink Room” and a second bar

Next to the big main room, hidden behind a mirror door as you pass by skeleton “Klaus”, there is a second little bar just like in Tel Aviv – the “Butler” with unbranded, limited-edition bottles and special drinks for connoisseurs and/or all those fond of taking a closer look at the drinks and their ingredients. And that’s not all: because passing the bright red “Elevator” you access the “Pink Room” exclusive to Berlin used for private functions and as an overflow venue. Here you feel like you’ve been beamed up into a Wes Anderson movie set.

“Like a time capsule in a movie”

The bar in Berlin in managed by Peggy Knuth. She is known from her days at “Pauly Saal” in the “Salut!” and recently at “Fragrances” in the Ritz Carlton on Potsdamer Platz. Peggy in turn knows “Bellboy” from Tel Aviv. While on holiday in 2018 she fell in love with the concept, she reports: “I was really inspired. You enter, it is lively, a buzz, like a time capsule in a movie. 

All of these wonderful details, I loved it,” she raves. In her new position she does not work so much at the bar herself but coordinates the seven strong team. “We ensure the team is well trained, that the timing and quantities are right.” In doing so, many management tools are used for staff scheduling, sourcing or internal communication, for example. No more e-mail or WhatsApp chaos: “Everything is properly organised, well thought-out and calculated,” says Knuth. “This makes the work so much easier.”

“Learning management at a higher level”

“We want to allow bartenders to learn management at a higher level,” adds Omer Gazit-Shalev who spent a long time working behind the bar himself and gave birth to the “Tel Aviv Cocktail Week”. If people proceed from bartending to management he says, they are often not prepared for the tasks awaiting them there – from tax matters to payroll accounting. What you learn at the “Bellboy Group” can be used to manage an outlet or open up your own business, he explains. And they can also put managers to good use in house because the group that currently runs six bars in Israel continues on course for expansion: the next step is a hotel opening in April 2022 with three integral bars; two other bars are being designed at the new “Kempinski” Hotel, slotted for opening in November. And at least three or four more bar concepts are envisaged for Germany within the next 18 months.  

Also a restaurant

And since we started with (what used to be) a restaurant, it is important to point out in closing: yes, the “Bellboy” is also a restaurant. Alongside the 30 cocktails this concept has to offer, they also serve a varied range of delicatessen – ranging from Gillardeau oysters, fish tartar, foie gras and roasted courgette to fillet of beef with Kimchi gratiné. So should anyone head for this place expecting to find a restaurant like in the past (which does still occasionally happen, we are told) – they will not be disappointed. Quite on the contrary – there are plenty of experiences to be had here.  

Bellboy
Mohrenstraße 30
10117 Berlin
https://bellboybar.com/home



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